专利摘要:
The invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) one or more alkoxysilanes having a solubilizing function (s) of the formula R 1 Si (OR 2) z (R 3) x (OH) y, and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers, (b) one or more of formula (R4) mSi (OR5) n and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers, and (c) one or more surfactants. It also relates to its use for cleaning and / or conditioning keratinous fibers.
公开号:FR3044904A1
申请号:FR1562330
申请日:2015-12-14
公开日:2017-06-16
发明作者:Julien Cabourg;Gregory Plos;Marie Cognet;Estelle Mathonneau
申请人:LOreal SA;
IPC主号:
专利说明:

Composition comprising the combination of particular alkoxysilanes and a surfactant
The present invention relates to a composition comprising a combination of particular alkoxysilanes and at least one surfactant, its use for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers and a cosmetic treatment method using this composition.
In the field of the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human fibers, such as the hair, maintenance of the hair is ensured by the combination of two types of treatments: cleaning which has the function of eliminating exogenous soils as dust, endogenous soils such as sebum that migrates from the scalp along the hair shaft, as well as any remains of styling products used in the rinsed mode (such as, for example, lacquer polymers, gels, mosses, fatty substances from oils, milks or hair creams); and the care, generally carried out after the cleaning step, which can be carried out according to two main modes, rinsed (products of the after-shampoo or mask types), or not rinsed, with lotions, milks, creams, oils or pastes , the non-rinsed modes also for the purpose of ensuring shaping of the hair.
For effective cleaning, anionic surfactants are used, such as alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates or alkyl ether sulfates, most often associated with zwitterionic surfactants such as betaines. The detergent action of these surfactants, effective, leads after rinsing to a rough, crunchy touch, and trouble disentangling, which can be critical for thin hair, curly, or sensitized by the action of light or treatments such as coloring, discoloration, perm or smoothing.
In order to compensate for these drawbacks, cationic polymers and / or silicones, which are not completely removed after rinsing, and which make it possible to provide lubrication to the fibers, facilitating the disentangling of the hair, are added to the surfactant-based compositions. wet like dry hair.
However, it remains difficult to simultaneously obtain a good level of cleaning and ease of disentangling and this is one of the reasons for using care products, rinsed or not rinsed.
The care products generally comprise fatty, liquid or solid substances, for example fatty alcohols or silicones, combined with cationic agents, cationic surfactant types, cationic polymers, cationic or cationic silicones. They are applied in rinsed mode, for example in the case of conditioners and masks, or in non-rinsed mode, for example in the case of milks, creams or care oils.
To improve the performance of cleaning and care products, various combinations of alkoxysilane (s) with solubilizing function (s) with at least one surfactant which may be particular, are known from French patent applications Nos. 2,930,438, 2,954,099, 2,954,100 and 2,954,129. Other combinations which also make it possible to remedy this, in particular fatty-chain alkoxysilanes and surfactant (s), are described in the French patent applications. our. 2,966,350 and 2,966,351.
These combinations certainly made it possible to obtain good conditioning performance, particularly in terms of wet disentangling, flexibility, regular touch of the roots at the tip and discipline (smooth appearance), both in the case of cleaning treatments and for hair care treatments.
However, the levels of performance are still insufficient, and the persistence of these performances is not entirely satisfactory. In addition, the stability problems of this type of combination considerably limit the possibilities of formulation. Moreover, the touch of the hair after treatment can appear as unnatural.
These products are also expected to provide reinforcing effects on the hair, with an increase in the apparent volume of the hair and an increase in its perceived density, especially for normal or fine hair, and even more so if those They have undergone treatments such as staining, discoloration or permanent changes in their shape (crimping, in some cases, smoothing) but none of the technologies proposed until today is satisfactory.
In addition, care products, rinsed or not, are also used to limit the appearance of frizziness during exposure to moisture, but they are poor or they bring a touch and a bold visual.
Finally, the performance of cleaning products, care or body treatment is not or very little durable. Indeed, from the first shampoo, we find in particular a touch and a difficulty to disentangle the hair. On the one hand it shows that the hair is always as damaged and fragile as before the treatments, on the other hand it forces to reapply the care in a practically systematic way.
There is therefore a need to develop washing and hair care compositions that significantly improve conditioning performance, such as disentangling wet hair, flexibility, discipline and smooth feel, and providing also a gain in volume and density, which are stable over time and easy to use, while maintaining a natural touch, non-greasy, non-sticky, with, in the case in particular of sensitized hair, a remanence effect of care perceptible between two or more shampoos.
The applicant has now discovered that the joint use of at least two different particular alkoxysilanes, as defined below and at least one surfactant, made it possible to meet this need. The subject of the invention is thus a composition comprising: (a) one or more alkoxysilanes with solubilizing function (s) of the following formula (I), and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers:
RiSi (OR2) z (R3) x (OH) y (I) in which:
R 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted by one or more groups chosen from the groups: amine NH 2 or NHR, R being an alkyl group; C 1 -C 20, preferably C 1 -C 6, optionally substituted by a group comprising a silicon atom, a C 3 -C 40 cycloalkyl group or a C 6 -C 30 aromatic, -hydroxy, thiol, aryl or substituted or unsubstituted aryloxy group; , in particular substituted with an amino group or with a C1-C4 aminoalkyl group;
R 1 capable of being interrupted by a heteroatom such as O, S, NH, or a carbonyl group (CO), R 2 and R 3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with z + x + y = 3, (b) one or more alkylalkoxysilanes of following formula (III), and / or their hydrolysis products, and / or their oligomers: (R4) mSi (OR5) - (III) in which: R-4 and R5 each independently represent one of the other, C 1-6 alkyl, preferably C 1-4 alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl, preferably methyl, ethyl and n-propyl, n is 1 at 3, m goes from 1 to 3, provided that m + n = 4. and (c) one or more surfactants.
This composition is stable over time, and allows to obtain better cosmetic properties such as detangling, a smooth, natural, non-greasy, and non-sticky on wet and dry hair. In addition, a persistence of the properties is observed after at least one shampoo. In addition, this composition improves the durability of the effects of colorations to shampoos.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stable in time" means that the visual appearance and the viscosity of the compositions do not change, or substantially not (variation generally less than 10% with respect to the viscosity at T0), over time under standard storage conditions, for example during the month or two months after their manufacture, at 4 ° C, at room temperature (20-25 ° C) and at 45 ° C. It is also understood that the performance obtained does not change or not substantially during the storage of the formulas.
The subject of the present invention is also the use of a composition according to the invention for cleaning and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human fibers such as the hair.
Another subject of the invention consists of a cosmetic treatment process, more particularly of cleaning and / or conditioning of keratinous fibers, in particular human fibers such as the hair, comprising the use of the composition according to the invention. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.
In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field, especially in the expressions "between" and "from ... to ...". The expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
According to the invention, the composition comprises: (a) one or more alkoxysilanes with solubilizing function (s) of formula (I) as defined in the present application, and / or their hydrolysis products and or their oligomers, (b) one or more alkylalkoxysilanes of formula (III) as defined in the present application, and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers, and (c) one or more surfactants.
By oligomer is meant the polymerization products of the compounds to which the expression "oligomer" refers having from 2 to 10 silicon atoms.
In the present invention, the expression "alkoxysilane (s) with solubilizing function (s) (a)" covers the alkoxysilane (s) with solubilizing function (s) of the following formula (I): , and / or their hydrolysis product (s) and / or their oligomer (s):
RiSi (OR2) z (R3) x (OH) y (I) in which:
R 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted by one or more groups chosen from the groups: amine NH 2 or NHR, R being an alkyl group; C 1 -C 20, preferably C 1 -C 6, optionally substituted by a group comprising a silicon atom, a C 3 -C 40 cycloalkyl group or a C 6 -C 20 aromatic-C 6 -C 6 6 -alkyl, -hydroxy-thiol-aryl or substituted or unsubstituted aryloxy group; , in particular substituted with an amino group or with a C1-C4 aminoalkyl group,
R 1 which may be interrupted by a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group (CO), R 2 and R 3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, y denotes an integer from 0 to 3, z denotes an integer from 0 to 3, and x denotes an integer from 0 to 2, with z + x + y = 3.
More particularly, the alkoxysilanes with solubilizing function (s) (a) comprise at least one amino group in their structure.
Preferably, R 1 is an acyclic chain.
Preferably, R 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted by an NH 2 or NHR amine group, R being a C 1 -C 20, preferably C 1 -C 6, alkyl or a C 3 cycloalkyl group. -C40 or an aromatic group of Ce-Cso, optionally substituted by a group comprising a silicon atom, better a (R20) 3Si group,
Preferably, R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably is the ethyl group.
Preferably, R 3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.
Preferably the compound of formula (I) has only one or two silicon atoms in its structure.
Preferably z varies from 1 to 3. Even more preferentially, z is equal to 3, and therefore x = y = 0.
Preferably, the alkoxysilane (s) with solubilizing function (s) (a) according to the invention are chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3- (m-aminophenoxy) propyl-trimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethylaminomethyl) phenethyltrimethoxysilane, bis [3 - (triethoxysilyl) propyl ] amine, their oligomers, their hydrolysis products and a mixture of these compounds, more preferably from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethyl) - 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] amine, their oligomers, their hydrolysis products and a mixture of these compounds, and in particular the alkoxysilane (s) with solubilizing function (s) (s) ) (a) of formula (I) is or are selected from 3-aminop ropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), its oligomers, its hydrolysis products and a mixture of these compounds.
According to a preferred embodiment, the at least one alkoxysilane (s) with solubilizing function (s) (a) is or are chosen from the following compounds of formula (II) and / or their product (s) of hydrolysis and / or their oligomer (s): H2N (CH2) n "-Si (OR ') 3 (II) in which the R' groups, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear alkyl groups; or branched C 1 -C 6 and n "is an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4.
An alkoxysilane with a particularly preferred solubilizing function (s) (a) according to this embodiment is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) and / or one of its hydrolysis products and / or one of its oligomers.
The alkoxysilane (s) with solubilizing function (s) (a) used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight. , and in particular from 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The second essential ingredient (b) of the composition of the invention is an alkylalkoxysilane of the following formula (III), and / or one of its hydrolysis products and / or one of its oligomers: (R4) mSi (OR5) " (III) wherein: R4 and R5 are each independently C1-6alkyl, more preferably C1-4, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl; and tert-butyl, preferably methyl, ethyl and n-propyl, n is 1 to 3, m is 1 to 3, with the proviso that m + n = 4.
Preferably, R5 is methyl, ethyl or n-propyl, n = 3 and m = 1.
Preferably, the oligomers of the compounds of formula (III) are water-soluble. As examples of alkylalkoxysilanes (b) that are particularly preferred, mention may especially be made of methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), methyltripropoxysilane, their oligomers and their hydrolysis products.
In the present invention, the term "alkylalkoxysilane (s) (b)" includes the alkylalkoxysilane (s) of formula (III), and / or their hydrolysis product (s) and / or their (s) Oligomer (s).
The alkylalkoxysilane (s) (b) used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.3% to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In a particular embodiment of the invention, these two compounds (a) and (b) are present in the composition according to the invention in a weight ratio (a) / (b) ranging from 0.5 to 10, of preferably 1 to 10, more preferably 1.5 to 7.
The surfactants (c) that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic or cationic.
The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups -CO2H, -CO2 -SO3H, -SO3 ", -OSO3H, -OSO3-, -H2po3, -HPO3-, -PO32-, -H2PO2, -hpo2-, -po22 Examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention include alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-sulfonates. acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, alkyl glycinates, alkylsarcosinate, alkyl carboxylates, salts of D-galactoside-uron acids alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.
These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
The salts of C 6 -C 24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and polyglycoside-sulphosuccinates. C6-C24 alkyl.
When the anionic surfactants are in the form of salts, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts. salts of amines and in particular aminoalcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt. By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl-1- propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.
The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
In a particular embodiment, the anionic surfactants may be chosen from (C 6 -C 24) alkyl sulphates, the (C 6 -C 24) alkyl ethers comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, acyl (C6-C40) sarcosinates, (C6-C40) acyl glutamates, and (C6-C40) alkylcarboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal salts, ammonium, aminoalcohols, and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds.
Even better, the alkyl (C 12 -C 20) sulphates, the (C 12 -C 20) alkyl ethersulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, the (C 6 -C 24) acyl sarcosinates and the (C 6 -C 24) acyl glutamates are used. and (C6-C24) alkyl ether-carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, aminoalcohol, and alkaline earth metal salts, or a mixture thereof of these compounds. More preferably, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate containing 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide, laureth-5-carboxylic acid, sodium lauroylsarcosinate, disodium cocoylglutamate, and mixtures thereof are preferred.
Examples of nonionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols and (C 1 -C 20) alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 atoms. carbon, the number of ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide may range from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging from 2 to 30.
Mention may also be made of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols, the polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, the polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, on average, 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, esters of ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acids having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, esters of fatty acids of polyethylene glycol, (C6-C24 alkyl) mono- or polyglycosides, N- (C6-C24 alkyl) glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14) alkyl oxides; ) amines or oxides of N- (C10-C14 acyl) aminopropylmorpholine, or alternatively optionally hydrogenated vegetable oils, and in particular polyethoxylated vegetable oils preferably having from 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, better still 10 with 50 ethylene oxide units.
Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are chosen from polyethoxylated alcohols, the alcohols comprising especially from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and the number of ethylene oxide groups ranging especially from 2 to 50, and the (C 6 -C 24) alkyls. mono- or polyglycosides, and mixtures thereof.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants that may be used in the present invention may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate, and wherein the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a linear or branched chain having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
Mention may in particular be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyls, sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6) alkylbetaines such as cocoamidopropylbetaine and (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6) alkyl- sulfobetaines.
Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, mention may also be made of the following products of respective structures (IV) and (V):
Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N + (Rb) (Rc) (CH2COO) (IV) in which:
Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH, preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,
Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and
Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (B ') (V) wherein: B represents -CH2CH2OX', X 'represents the group -CH2-COOH, CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ ', or a hydrogen atom, B 'represents - (CH2) Z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, Y 'represents -COOH, -COOZ', the group -CH2-CHOH-SO3H or -CH2-CHOH- SO3Z ', Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine and in particular an aminoalcohol, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.
Ra 'represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an R 2 -C 10 F 1 acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially C 17, and its iso form, a group in unsaturated C17.
These compounds are also classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.
It is also possible to use compounds of formula (Vbis):
Ra "-NH-CH (Y") - (CH 2) "- C (O) -NH- (CH 2) n -N (Rd) (Re) (Va) in which formula: Y" represents the group -C (0) OH, -C (O) OZ-, -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3H or -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3-Z ";
Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group; Z "represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
Ra "represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an Ra" -C (O) OH acid, preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil; n and n ', independently of one another, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
Among the compounds of formula (Vbis), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.
Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from alkyl (Cs-C20) betaines, alkyl (Cs-C20) amidoalkyl (Ci-C6) betaines and (C8-C20) alkyl amphodiacetates, as well as mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, cocoylamidopropylbetaine, cocoylbetaine and cocoamphodiacetate.
The cationic surfactant or surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, in particular, the optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, the quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may be made, for example: - those corresponding to the following general formula (VI):
(VI) in which the groups Rs to Ru, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of Rs to Ru groups having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and X 'is an anion selected from the group of the halides such as chloride, bromide and iodide, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkyl. C4) arylsulphonates.
The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C1-C30alkyl, C1-C30alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30alkylamide, (C2-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl, ( C12-C22) acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl, X "is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkyl. C4) arylsulphonates.
Of the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI), tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred. carbon, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or else palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by VAN DYK. the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (VII) below:
(VII) in which
R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,
R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,
R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X "is an anion chosen from the group of halides, such as chloride, bromide and iodide, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyls ) sulfates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyls or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates.
Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO. the quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (VIII) below:
(VIII) wherein R 18 denotes an alkyl group having from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,
R 7 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group - (CH 2) 3 -N + (R 16a) (R 17a) (R 18a),
Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, R18, R19, R20 and R2i, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X 'is an anion chosen from the group of halides, as chloride, bromide and iodide, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulphate and ethylsulphate.
Such compounds are, for example, the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75). the quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as, for example, those of the following formula (IX):
wherein: R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl and hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl, R23 is selected from: - the group
the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based R 27 groups, the hydrogen atom, R 25 is chosen from:
the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based R 29 groups, the identical or different hydrogen atom, R 24, R 26 and R 28, are chosen from linear or branched C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups; , saturated or unsaturated, r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6, r 1 and t 1, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, r 2 + r 1 = 2 r and t 1 + t 2 = 2 t , y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z, which are the same or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X 'is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and when z is 0 then R25 is R29.
The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.
Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
When R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or unsaturated.
Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are 2 or 3, and even more particularly are 2. The anion X 'is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl (Ci -C4) sulfate, (C1-C4) alkyl- or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulfonate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The anion X 'is even more particularly chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate.
In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (IX) are used more particularly in which: R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, - r, s and t are equal to 2, - R.23 is chosen from: • the group
• methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, • the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from: • the group
The hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from C13 alkyl and alkenyl groups; -C17, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.
Examples of the compounds of formula (IX) that may be mentioned include salts, especially diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification. of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulphate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate. ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, chlorohydrin glycol or glycerol.
Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.
The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. By way of examples of such compounds, mention may be made of distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium or dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and in particular the methosulphates.
It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.
It is also possible to use behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, proposed by KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose those of formula (VI) or (IX), such as the cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more surfactants (c) chosen from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and more particularly from (C 6 -C 24) alkyl sulphates. the (C6-C24) alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, the (C6-C40) acyl sarcosinates, the (C6-C40) acyl glutamates, the (C6-C40) alkyl ether ether carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal salts, ammonium, aminoalcohols, and alkaline earth metals; polyethoxylated Cs-is alcohols, the number of ethylene oxide groups ranging in particular from 2 to 50, the (C 6 -C 24) alkyl mono- or polyglycosides; (C8-C20) alkyl betaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkyl betaines, (C8-C20) alkyl amphodiacetates; and their mixtures.
In another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more surfactants (c) chosen from cationic surfactants, more preferably from the salts of cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, and more particularly the behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate; and their mixtures.
The composition according to the invention preferably has a total content of surfactant (s) ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 22% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is aqueous and comprises water at a concentration ranging preferably from 5 to 98% by weight, in particular from 20 to 95% by weight, better still from 50 to 95% by weight, by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition may also comprise one or more organic solvents liquid at 25 ° C, 1.01 × 10 5 Pa, in particular water-soluble, such as C 1 -C 7 alcohols, and especially C 1 -C 7 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, polyols and ethers. of C3-C7 polyols, which can therefore be used alone or in admixture with water. Advantageously, the organic solvent may be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof.
The pH of the composition, if it is aqueous, is preferably between 3 and 11, in particular between 4 and 10.
The pH of these compositions can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalinizing agents or acidifying agents usually used. Among the alkalinizing agents, ammonia, alkanolamines or inorganic or organic hydroxides may be exemplified by way of example. Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include, for example, inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for example acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
In a preferred variant of the invention, the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid, preferably lactic acid.
The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more cosmetic ingredients chosen from thickening agents, salts such as sodium chloride, liquid or solid fatty substances, preserving agents, perfumes and dyes, as well as the most of the usual cosmetic agents of hair treatments such as cationic polymers.
These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose these optional additives and their amounts so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
The compositions according to the invention can be prepared in the following manner: at least one alkoxysilane with solubilizing function (s) (a) is mixed with a quantity of water at least equal to its weight, and then a quantity of water is added. sufficient acid to lower the pH of the solution to between 5 and 10.
At least one alkylalkoxysilane (b) is mixed in a second phase with a quantity of water at least equal to its weight, and an amount of acid sufficient to lower the pH to a value between 2 and 7 is also added. The water of one of these two phases may optionally contain one or more surfactants (c), as well as one or more additives such as a thickener.
The two phases thus obtained can be supplemented again by the addition of a surfactant (c) or another additive.
The two phases are then combined, and the surfactant (s) (c) can be added again as one or more other additives.
The compositions according to the invention may be present, in a nonlimiting manner, in the form of washing products for human hair, in particular shampoos, conditioning products such as conditioners, or both, or masks. The subject of the invention is also the use of the composition as defined above for the cleaning and / or conditioning of keratinous fibers, in particular human fibers such as the hair.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, preferably washing / cleaning and / or conditioning of keratin fibers, especially human fibers such as the hair, which consists in applying to human hair an effective amount of a composition such as described above and possibly rinsing. The invention is illustrated by the following examples.
Examples
Example 1: Care formulations
Formulations 1 to 10 according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below. All the percentages are by weight and the quantities indicated are expressed in% by weight of product in the state relative to the total weight of the formulation.
M.A .: Active Ingredient
M.A .: Active Ingredient
The compositions were obtained as follows: The liquid or molten fats were added to a warm aqueous solution of surfactants and preservatives. There was thus obtained a dispersion of fatty substances; separately, the methyltriethoxysilane was mixed with water and a sufficient quantity of pH agent to obtain a pH of 3, and aminopropyltriethoxysilane with water and the remaining amount of water were mixed. pH agent. Once these two phases are homogeneous, we have them together. If necessary, the thickening agent was added to them, and then, after the viscosity of the mixture became constant, this mixture was combined with the fat dispersion. Any dispersions of silicones and polyquaternium were added.
Wet strands, previously washed with a shampoo, were treated with formulation 10, applied at a rate of 150 mg per gram of hair over the entire length of the wick (non-rinsed mode).
The lock was kneaded between the fingers. We then observed a very good ease of disentangling and a smooth feel of the hair.
The hair was then dried, and again a disentangling facility, a smooth, non-greasy, non-tacky feel was observed.
The locks were then exposed for 24 hours at 80% relative humidity at 25 ° C. They were found to have little swelling and frizz.
The persistence of the effects was observed by rewetting the hair and shampooing, after which the disentangling and touching observations were repeated: disentangling was clearly facilitated both in the wet state and in the dry state and the locks were smoother to the touch.
Example 2: Cleaning formulations
Formulations 11 to 35 according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below. All the percentages are by weight and the quantities indicated are expressed in% by weight of product in the state relative to the total weight of the formulation.
M.A .: Active Ingredient
M.A .: Active Ingredient
The compositions were obtained as follows: - separately, the methyltriethoxysilane was mixed with water and a sufficient amount of pH agent to obtain a pH of 3, on the other hand aminopropyltriethoxysilane with water and the remaining amount of pH agent. Once these two phases are homogeneous, they are combined. They were then added to surfactant solutions (formulations 11-33) or solutions of surfactants and anionic polymers (formulations 34 and 35). Then, if necessary, salt, cationic polymers, preservatives and perfume were added. If necessary, an additional pH agent was added at the end of preparation to readjust the pH to the target value.
Different wet locks were treated with each of the formulations 14, 17, 18, 22, 24 and 28, each being applied at a rate of 400 mg per gram of hair. The lock was kneaded between the fingers and then rinsed. Then we wiped the lock between the fingers. We then observed a facility of disentangling and a smooth touch of the hair.
The hair was then dried, and a disentangling facility was again observed, coupled with a significant increase in flexural fiber stiffness.
权利要求:
Claims (15)
[1" id="c-fr-0001]
A composition comprising: (a) one or more alkoxysilanes with solubilizing function (s) of the following formula (I), and / or their hydrolysis products and / or their oligomers: RiSi (OR2) z (R3) x (OH) y (I) in which: R 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted by one or more groups chosen from the groups: amine NH 2 or NHR, R being a C 1 -C 20 alkyl, preferably C 1 -C 6 alkyl optionally substituted with a group having a silicon atom, a C 3 -C 40 cycloalkyl group or a C 6 -C 30 aromatic group, - hydroxy substituted or unsubstituted aryl or aryloxy, in particular substituted by an amino group or by a C1-C4 aminoalkyl group; R 1 capable of being interrupted by a heteroatom such as O, S, NH, or a carbonyl group (CO), R 2 and R 3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with z + x + y = 3, (b) one or more alkylalkoxysilanes of following formula (III), and / or their hydrolysis products, and / or their oligomers: (R4) mSi (OR5) - (III) in which: R4 and R5 each represent, independently of one another, a C 1-6 alkyl group, better still C 1-4, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl, preferably methyl, ethyl and n-propyl, n is 1 at 3, m goes from 1 to 3, provided that m + n = 4. and (c) one or more surfactants.
[2" id="c-fr-0002]
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that R 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted by an NH 2 or NHR amine group, R being a C 1 -C 20 alkyl group, preferably C1-C6, C3-C40 cycloalkyl or C6-C30 aromatic group, optionally substituted by a group having a silicon atom, more preferably a group (R20) 3Si.
[3" id="c-fr-0003]
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[4" id="c-fr-0004]
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) alkoxysilane (s) with solubilizing function (s) (s) is or are chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), the 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] amine, their oligomers, their hydrolysis products and a mixture of these compounds.
[5" id="c-fr-0005]
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) alkoxysilane (s) with solubilizing function (s) (s) (a) is or are chosen from those of formula (II) and / or their hydrolysis products, and / or their oligomers: H 2 N (CH 2) n -Si (OR ') 3 (II) in which the R' groups, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched alkyl groups, in C 1 -C 6 and n "is an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4.
[6" id="c-fr-0006]
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) alkoxysilane (s) with solubilizing function (s) (a) is or are present in an amount ranging from 0, 5% to 50% by weight, preferably 1% to 20% by weight, and in particular 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[7" id="c-fr-0007]
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in formula (III), R5 represents a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, n = 3 and m = 1.
[8" id="c-fr-0008]
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) alkylalkoxysilane (s) (b) is or are chosen from methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), methyltripropyloxysilane, their oligomers and their hydrolysis products.
[9" id="c-fr-0009]
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) alkylalkoxysilane (s) (b) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.3% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[10" id="c-fr-0010]
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that weight ratio (a) / (b) ranges from 0.5 to 10, preferably from 1 to 10, more preferably from 1.5 to 7.
[11" id="c-fr-0011]
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) surfactant (s) (c) is or are chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. preferably from (C6-C24) alkyl sulphates, (C6-C24) alkyl ether sulphates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, (C6-C40) acyl sarcosinates, (C6-C40) acyl glutamates, (C6-C40) alkyl ether ether carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal salts, ammonium salts, aminoalcohols, and alkaline earth metals; polyethoxylated Cs-is alcohols, the number of ethylene oxide groups ranging in particular from 2 to 50, the (C 6 -C 24) alkyl mono- or polyglycosides; (C8-C20) alkyl betaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkyl betaines, (C8-C20) alkyl amphodiacetates; and their mixtures.
[12" id="c-fr-0012]
12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the (s) surfactant (s) (c) is or are chosen from cationic surfactants, preferably from cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate; and their mixtures.
[13" id="c-fr-0013]
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) surfactant (s) (c) is or are present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and in particular from 0.5 to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[14" id="c-fr-0014]
14. Use of the composition according to any one of the preceding claims, for cleaning and / or conditioning keratinous fibers, especially human fibers.
[15" id="c-fr-0015]
15. Process for the cosmetic treatment, preferably washing / cleaning and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers, especially human fibers, comprising the application to the keratinous fibers of an effective amount of a composition according to any one of the claims. 1 to 13, and possibly rinsing.
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同族专利:
公开号 | 公开日
KR20180081590A|2018-07-16|
EP3389789A1|2018-10-24|
ES2834086T3|2021-06-16|
US20210137808A1|2021-05-13|
FR3044904B1|2019-05-31|
JP6730445B2|2020-07-29|
WO2017102855A1|2017-06-22|
KR102105477B1|2020-04-28|
JP2018537540A|2018-12-20|
US20180369109A1|2018-12-27|
US10933007B2|2021-03-02|
EP3389789B1|2020-09-09|
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法律状态:
2016-11-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
2017-06-16| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20170616 |
2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
2020-11-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
2021-11-09| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
优先权:
申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
FR1562330|2015-12-14|
FR1562330A|FR3044904B1|2015-12-14|2015-12-14|COMPOSITION COMPRISING THE ASSOCIATION OF PARTICULAR ALCOXYSILANES AND SURFACTANT|FR1562330A| FR3044904B1|2015-12-14|2015-12-14|COMPOSITION COMPRISING THE ASSOCIATION OF PARTICULAR ALCOXYSILANES AND SURFACTANT|
US16/061,858| US10933007B2|2015-12-14|2016-12-14|Composition comprising the combination of specific alkoxysilanes and of a surfactant|
PCT/EP2016/081023| WO2017102855A1|2015-12-14|2016-12-14|Composition comprising the combination of specific alkoxysilanes and of a surfactant|
ES16822398T| ES2834086T3|2015-12-14|2016-12-14|Composition comprising the combination of specific alkoxysilanes and a surfactant|
JP2018549622A| JP6730445B2|2015-12-14|2016-12-14|Compositions containing combinations of specific alkoxysilanes and surfactants|
KR1020187016775A| KR102105477B1|2015-12-14|2016-12-14|Composition comprising a combination of certain alkoxysilanes and surfactants|
EP16822398.0A| EP3389789B1|2015-12-14|2016-12-14|Composition comprising the combination of specific alkoxysilanes and of a surfactant|
US17/152,413| US20210137808A1|2015-12-14|2021-01-19|Composition comprising the combination of specific alkoxysilanes and of a surfactant|
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